Fast Pace Life of KG

I realize that I have not written much for a while. Honestly, between our swearing in and moving to our permanent sites, life has been a bit hectic. Now there is so much to write about. I know if I do not sit down and write it all out I will never get around to it… or I will forget all of the juicy details.

1. Trip to the Lake
The NGO that I work for decided that it was time to go visit a few other NGOs to get project ideas. At least, that was my understanding of why we took a trip out to lake Issyk-kul. Making the arrangements for the trip was taxing with my limited language skills. I have discovered that I am able to understand a good deal of Russian but I still sound like a three year old when I try to speak.
The first NGO we visited dealt mostly with elderly. The second works with at-risk children and families in the city. It was nice to get out and see the work other people are doing. I am anxious to see what project ideas my counterpart and director got from the trip.
The lake itself if absolutely gorgeous! To get there we drive through the mountains. I was exhausted because I had just recently been at my previous host brother’s wedding. I was hoping to get some sleep on the taxi ride. However, my director and counterpart were so excited about me seeing a new part of the country, they woke me up every 10 minutes to show me something new along the way.

2. The Wedding
*Note: If this is NOT descriptive enough or you don’t understand, just go on You-Tube, type in Turkish Wedding and watch whatever pops up. There is bound to be footage on one on the internet somewhere.
I went to a Turkish wedding. I do not even know where to begin describing the wedding. I did over eagerly think that I would have a ton of fun since I was finally able to understand a good deal of Russian. What I had forgotten was that Turkish people, when they get together in mass groups like a wedding, speak Turkish to each other. The entire night was entirely in Turkish unless someone was specifically addressing me.
I arrived at my old host family and had greetings screamed as I walked up the street. It was a rather exciting feeling. I jumped right in helping cut tomatoes, putting napkins on tables and later stuffing more napkins into cups to decorate the tables. Each table was covered with platters of fruit, candy, nuts, bread, soda and several different types of salad. The main course and tea were to come later.
Because of our culture day presentation, I had some understanding of what to expect as far as the “ceremony” goes. However, when I saw my brother and his two men (like best men) climbing onto our roof with a riffle and a bag, I was genuinely curious/concerned. I decided that something major was about to happen and I should change into my wedding outfit quickly. Shortly after I went into change my clothes, I heard these loud pipes and drums start outside. I nearly fell down the front steps trying to get outside fast enough.
The bride arrived with her family and her two girls (like bridesmaids). They played the pipes from the time the car arrived until the bride had been walked inside the house. The minute she was out of the car, one of my brothers friends shot off the riffle. Torn money came floating down. That’s right. They shot off rounds stuffed with money. The other friend began to throw candy from the bag. This continued as we all danced the bride towards the house. Meaning, we dance around her while she is lead into the house where women gather around her to dance and sing some more.
A bit about costuming- it is important to understand that in Turkish weddings the bride is veiled until the ceremony is over. She wears a white wedding dress (just like brides in America), both hands are covered with fancy white handkerchiefs, the two veils are placed on her head: one is white, the one on top bright red. Her two girls literally guide her everywhere because while the veil maybe partially see-through, she still cannot entirely see. Also, the bride never smiles.
After the singing, dancing and picture taking inside the house, the bride is left inside until later in the evening. Everyone arrives to the massively huge tent that took over half a block’s worth of our street. In the center of the tent was a stage for dancing and where the bride & groom and their friends sit. On either side of the stage are the long bench-like tables that we had so carefully decorated. The men sit on one side and the women on the other.
A few more hours pass and it is time for the bride to be unveiled. As before, the pipers and drummer followed by a slew of dancing female relatives bring the bride from the house to the stage. However, this time my brother and his men are also walking with the chorus. Underneath the sash on her waste are now tucked two loaves of bread. One of my brother’s men carries two knives with him. After the bride is seated in a chair, he dances around her making a slicing motion with the knives above his head. At the completion of each circle, he lifts part of the veil and repeats some phrase. I tried to have it translated but all I could understand was “if she speaks, may he cut her tongue out.” Going from Turkish to Russian and then into English… I know I lost something somewhere. Once the veil is off, the guy with the knives and my brother’s other man do a dance. This was followed by the women dancing again, which was followed by my host brother doing a dance. The bride and groom are then walked to their table where their friends sit on either side of them.
After the unveiling ceremony, the real dancing begins. Friends and family take turns going up onto the stage to make a toast to the young couple. After the toast, my host parents danced with whomever had just toasted their son and new daughter-in-law, and people sitting at the tables got up to hand all of the dancers money. This went on for a few hours. A family toasts. Everyone dances. People hand out money. Repeat. The bride and groom had to stand for every toast. I knew the bride did not get to smile during the unveiling ceremony but I thought that she would be able to relax during the celebration. Actually, it’s quite the opposite. She remained starring at the ground with a blank expression on her face through the entire night.
Once the toasting was over. The bride and groom where danced back to the house with the pipes and drum, just like before. It is kind of like being sent off for your honeymoon but they don’t actually leave to go anywhere.
Until about 2 in the morning we continued to dance outside. I had forgotten how fun Turkish dancing is. Apparently I was a good student during training because I had several women come ask me who taught me to dance. And at the end of the night, I think I had received four different proposals.